Explaining the New Balance 990 Series
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By Stadium Goods |Explaining the New Balance 990 Series
Your guide to all six versions of the Made in USA New Balance 990.
Matt DeSciora & Zack Schlemmer
There isn’t so much one reason, but many reasons as to why New Balance has risen to the upper echelon of sneaker popularity in recent years. But if you were looking for one very clear component of New Balance’s hot streak, you could certainly find merit in the brand’s 990 series. Since appointing Aimé Leon Dore founder Teddy Santis as the Creative Director of its “Made in USA” collection in 2021, the New York native has brought a fresh perspective to the line that puts an emphasis on attention to detail and premium craftsmanship.
New Balance has also looked to its other notable collaborative partners for their design input on the classic series, including super designers Joe Freshgoods and Ronnie Fieg, and trusted boutiques like Bodega.
As with many of New Balance’s products, there’s some nuance to the 990’s “Made in USA” collection. You may be a bit unfamiliar with all of the differences between each 990 variation, and what “Made in the USA” actually means. But don’t worry, we’ll provide answers to those questions and more below.
This is everything you need to know about New Balance’s popular 990 “Made in USA” collection.
New Balance 990 V1 “Made in USA”
Pictured: Teddy Santis x New Balance 990 V1 Made in USA “Grey”
Getting into the New Balance 990 “Made in USA” series means getting familiar with the original or “OG,” if you will, sneaker in the collection: the New Balance 990 V1. Originally released back in 1982, the 990 V1 is the first-ever running sneaker with a $100 retail price tag. The shoe’s price point was indicative of its blend of performance technology and premium, Made in USA craftsmanship.
While Santis oversees the entirety of New Balance’s “Made in USA” collection, he’s taken a liking to the New Balance 990, including the V1. His version of the New Balance 990 V1 “Made in USA - Grey” updates the shoe with hairy suede overlays against a neutral-colored base. As you’ll see, the formula is consistent throughout much of the “Made in USA” series.
New Balance 990 V2
Pictured: Teddy Santis x New Balance 990 V2 Made in USA “Grey”
Next up for the New Balance 990 line is the V2. Let’s quickly run down some of its facts: the sneaker was debuted by New Balance in 1998, and was the first shoe in the lineup with the brand’s now-signature ABZORB cushioning technology. The shoe was collaborated on by Aimé Leon Dore in 2019, and again in Santis’s run as Creative Director in 2022. Kith and Salehe Bembury, among others, have also released incredibly nice 990 V2s.
New Balance 990 V3
Pictured: Teddy Santis x New Balance 990 V3 Made in USA “Grey”
The New Balance 990 V3 “Made in USA” has been a popular shoe in the collection, with both Santis and Joe Freshgoods, the talented streetwear and sneaker designer from Chicago, giving the silhouette refreshing new colorways in 2022. Joe’s New Balance 990 V3 “Outside Clothes” is the anticipated follow-up to his debut “No Emotions Are Emotions” collaboration with New Balance from 2020. Like that coveted project, the “Outside Clothes” brings a fresh perspective to sneaker storytelling.
As for the 990 V3 itself, the model was originally released in 2012 as part of the 990’s 30th anniversary celebration. The V3 traditionally features a mesh and suede upper, and is equipped with New Balance’s ENCAP cushioning and stability technology in the sole.
New Balance 990 V4
Pictured: JJJJound x New Balance 990 V4 “Navy/Black”
If you’ve made it this far, then what we’re about to say probably goes without saying, but we’ll say it anyway. The New Balance “Made in USA” line brings out the best in the Boston footwear brand and its collaborators. Case in point: the Kith x United Arrows x New Balance 990 V4 from 2022, a three-way collaboration between Ronnie Fieg, the Japanese clothing brand, and New Balance that celebrates Kith’s 10th anniversary.
The New Balance 990 V4 is commonly thought of as one of the sneakers that popularized the “dad shoe” wave, as it debuted in 2016, right as the trend was beginning to take off. The design of the 900 V4 is similar to the V3, but with a slightly more streamlined upper and midsole.
New Balance 990 V5
Pictured: New Balance 990 V5 “Grey”
First released in 2019, the 990 V5 is the second-newest member of the New Balance 990 family. The overall shape for the silhouette of the V5 is similar to V3 and V4, but with a more modern, sleek appearance for the lines of the upper and midsole. To date, Teddy Santis hasn’t included the 990 V5 in any of his “Made in USA” collections with considered materials and colorways, but we wouldn’t be surprised to see it get the extra-premium treatment soon.
New Balance 990 V6
Pictured: New Balance 990 V6 “Grey”
The latest 990, just released in late 2022, is the V6. New Balance appears to be following the chunky sole trend for V6, which as you can see, features a more substantial sole unit than previous versions of the 990. V6 is also the first 990 to utilize New Balance’s newer “FuelCell” cushioning system, which according to New Balance, “delivers a propulsive feel to help drive you forward.”
New Balance “Made in USA,” a Lasting Legacy
For New Balance, “Made in USA” means creating sneakers with a domestic value of 70% or more. The company assembles more than 4 million pairs of shoes per year in the USA, and employs American workers in factories in Maine and Massachusetts. The brand is committed to purchasing materials from local suppliers whenever possible.
After reading this explainer to the popular series, it should be abundantly clear that New Balance’s “Made in USA” collection is virtually synonymous with expert craftsmanship and keen attention to detail, and that continues to be evident with each passing new release from the brand.